Crazy Canyon: Macedonia

It was meant to be a relaxing weekend with two of my friend's colleagues, sharing activities like kayaking and swimming at some lake in a canyon in the Macedonian mountains, namely the lake Matka, formed by the hydroelectric dam Matka I. It did not work out quite that way, but still we are glad we came and there will be many things to remember about this trip. Having taken some food for the drive we create the term border-crossing cheese balls as we eat those while waiting at the check point. As expected, no problems here and yes, we are diplomatic!

The instructions how to reach the hotel are a bit enigmatic, but we finally make it. A small hotel directly at the lake, big terrace, great view from the rooms (when they are finally ready) and an Orthodox chapel right next door. But we already see the threat to our peaceful and quiet evening: The hotel is preparing for a wedding! Well. But it's only noon, so we get two two-seated plastic kayaks and set out up-stream, always chasing the answer to the question of what lies behind the next corner. The lake turns out to form an even curve, so it's new similar great views, the path on the rock some ten meters above on the one side and some huts on the more level other side. After some good kayaking (or drifting...) we are quite hungry and after being shown where we can and where we can't eat by some rather surly young waiter we enjoy big bowls of chopska, the local salad (chopped tomatoes - those alone are worth a trip! - and cucumbers covered in white cheese). The afternoon passes pleasantly with reading, talking about books and some wine.

When we start thinking about dinner, the first wedding guests arrive. The quite long and cobbled walk from the parking lot puts strain even on the most skilled owner of 10cm heels. We marvel at the brightly colored dresses and hair styles of some female guests (and the less than happy look on the face of the bride). While the surly young man serves us dinner the party on the main terrace starts. The DJ plays a mix of traditional songs and 80s and 90s (including 'Time to Say Goodbye'...), the bride's mood however seems to improve and so does the volume of the music.

Even with closed windows it's loud enough for a party in our rooms, someone didn't plan this too well. I fall asleep anyway, two of the others, however, don't and they don't feel all that diplomatic anymore, either.
In the morning we manage to get a deal granting all of us another free night and the possibility to use the showers once more after having checked out today, so we can do some more canyon activities. First we visit a recently discovered cave upstream. It is quite cold inside and there is a lake and many bats! On the way back the guide manages to explain that the huts along the lake belong to Tarzan and Jane - or maybe just to some fishermen... Later we climb up a very steep path to a small monastery looking quite exactly like the chapel next to the hotel on the opposite side of the canyon. When we get back and are handed the keys to one of the rooms to shower, it turns out the whole building is without water... Well, what can you do. The crew can use a fire hose to get water from the canyon to do at least some rough cleaning and nearly floods our bags. But just nearly.

We leave in an amused mood, passing giant flags and statues on our way through the outskirts of Skopje. At the border we meet a strange sight. While there is a quite modest Kosovo flag on top of the check point building, a tiny shop right behind it (on Kosovo side) flies a giant Albanian flag... For the first time we get thoroughly interrogated about everyone's reasons for being in Kosovo. Maybe a new guy... We slowly get back to Prishtine, once more trying to adapt to the somewhat erratic Kosovar driving style. Once a driver is talking on the phone or even only to his neighbor he seems to be unable to go faster than 50km/h. You never stop learning in a new place...