Dienstag, 13. November 2012

Helsinki

I return to Helsinki and find the regional train to the CouchSurfing hosts’ home and the way to their house without problems. I’m afraid I didn’t pay for the ride, though, as I didn’t understand the vending machine on the train and it was rush hour, so it was really crowded and the conductor who also sells tickets didn’t make it to my cart.

My hosts are really enthusiastic about CouchSurfing – they host virtually all the time. I feel welcome at once in this cheerful family and we spend the evening in animated conversations about our countries, history, what to see in Helsinki, art and much more.

The main thing I do on my first full day in Helsinki is walking around the city center around the Esplanade. It’s not always sunny, but it doesn’t rain, there are quite many people in the street, calmly hurrying towards their destination, not so many tourists, of course. I like the architecture, the broad streets. I can see why Helsinki is called the smallest metropolis in the world, it surely has a cosmopolitan air to it. At noon I meet Liza from the US who also stays with my hosts in the Music Center. The building is futuristic and a bit puzzling on the first sight, but after some orientation we find our free organ concert. I am quite fond of organs and this high square room holds one organ in the center of each wall, quite astonishing. I think I never saw such big instruments outside a church. After a short introduction in Finnish a young woman plays Bach and Buxtehude. The acoustics of the room are perfect.
 
 


Walking made us hungry and we find a university cafeteria. As we aren’t students of Helsingin Yliopisto (University of Helsinki, one of the few Finnish words I manage to remember) we have to pay the full price, but 7 Euros seem OK considering the general price level. As I heard from friends who spent their exchange year here it’s just normal that you can find not only a vegetarian option, but also vegan and lactose-free food. The full meal includes salad and bread, a warm dish (I choose fish pasta, good choice), a glass of water and a glass of juice or milk. Milk is a popular drink here and most people seem to prefer fat-free milk instead of that containing 0.4% fat. I never imagined it’s even possible to take all the fat out of milk… (And I personally don’t like the watery look or taste of it.)

In the afternoon I stroll around a mall to see what is different from German malls (there are some different foods in the supermarket and there is a Moomin shop, almost everything is expensive, and, not necessarily different, but remarkable, I get to taste some truly luxurious cupcakes which are vegan!). After that I visit the Amos Anderson Art Museum, a smaller museum for modern art, Panu’s father was involved in a current exhibition and so I got a free ticket! The exhibition Boutique is a collection of collaborations between artists and designers. I don’t know all that much about modern art, but I can say I like these installations and videos. I also like the paintings by Fanny Churberg which I can see on another floor and the founder’s interiors. Although it’s not a big museum I am quite exhausted and it’s pitch dark already. I decide to take a look at the Cathedral, the most frequently photographed building in Finland and return home. When I walked from the port I got a glimpse on the cathedral at some point, but it doesn’t fail to impress me now when it suddenly enters my view.
 
 
 
Brightly lit it resides above Senate Square, I have to take a lot of pictures, too. I climb the steep stairs and find the door open. Moreover, the boys’ choir is rehearsing and obviously it’s OK to sit down and listen. About 60 Cantores Minores aged from around eight to 15 in their ordinary clothes need a strong leader, but when they sing they sing very well. I look around the huge wide room and find it to be an attractive combination of magnificent gold decorations and wide areas painted in plain white (or light blue, it’s hard to tell). When the rehearsal is over I walk around a little and when I turn around the gigantic organ really strikes me with surprise. I’ve never seen a curved organ. It looks as if it could fly.
 
 
On my way home I try to walk a different way to the station and find myself in something that feels like an ancient cave. I've heard that large parts of public life happen in tunnels like these to avoid the cold.

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