Glimpses of Istanbul (Istanbul III)

Thursday is the day of free admission to the modern art museum Istanbul Modern - not for non-residents, though. I decide to buy a ticket and although I don't know all that much about modern art I enjoy the different exhibitions of modern Turkish artists. When I have to leave I spend some more time in the yard, a stone garden looking out to the Bosporus and decorated with some entries to a recent architecture competition. One of them transports the movements of the water underneath to metal circles looking like slender giant mushrooms. The sun sets gleaming on the by passing ships and the opposite shore.

Politics are not as obviously heated as in late May when Taksim and Gezi Park dominated breakfast conversations in the partly Turkish team of the psychiatric clinic in Berlin I did my internship at. But even without previous experience and with very little knowledge of this city I recognize some signs of public activism. One day I happen to run across one of the long stairs leading up from the Bosporus painted in rainbow colors. On the next day I start to question my sense of orientation when I cannot find it. Later I learn that it had been painted illegally by citizens not willing to wait any longer for the city council to do something about street repair. There is a heated discussion about the boundaries of personal freedom and public property and at some point the stairs were painted grey again. There is a lot of police in the side streets of Istiklal, the avenue leading to Taksim Square, and the square itself...

I spent one day taking the ferry (not a tourist boat, but a regular part of public transportation as I know it from Hamburg) up the Golden Horn and visiting some sights along it, first the complex of Eyüp Sultan Mosque where I see many dressed up little boys in white glittery uniforms accompanied by there families to celebrate their upcoming circumcision. The huge cemetery extending up the hill towards the Pierre Lotfi café is a very popular destination for families, as well. The view of both the graves and over the Horn is quite spectacular - and I spend at least half an hour in the queue for the cable car back down to the ferry.

At a stop on the other side of the water I try to follow another of my German-Turkish friend's recommendations. Getting to Santralistanbul, however, proves to be difficult without speaking Turkish, but I make it! This industrial complex next to Bilgi University used to be the first urban power plant of the Ottoman Empire and supplied the city with energy from 1911 through 1983. Now it holds both the Energy Museum and halls for art exhibitions. Right now there is no exhibition and university hasn't started yet either, so the place is quite deserted expect for a few students out on the lawns and a receptionist and two security guys at the museum, none of whom speaks a word of English. So I walk the halls all on my own and get carried away with taking photos of the gigantic steel instruments. It does feel a bit creepy. But definitely worth a trip:

Getting back to Taksim gives me some tension, too, as darkness falls quickly and I once again have to find the right bus in spite of the language barrier and the absence of any signs. It's always an exhilarating mix of triumph (of having made it) and gratitude (of never having to make it quite on my own) and finally relaxation of returning to a more familiar area which in contrast feels ever so much like home.

One afternoon I also take a ferry to see some more of the Bosporus, of course. I always love being on a ship and even without knowing much about what exactly I see on the shores it is a great and relaxing way to spend two hours. Probably more relaxing in my state of information overload than opting for the audio guide...

After some discussions my train buddies and I also find a day to visit Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque together (didn't manage to see Topkapi though, well, I guess I'll be back ;)). Both monuments are quite crowded, but surprisingly I don't feel like it disturbs the atmosphere for me. Both the buildings and the decorations and mosaics are huge and impressive and in some way perfect, but once more I find I have too much imagination, they don't seem new to me although I've never even seen that many pictures... Still, a must see, no doubt about that. 

After having walked around a lot, taken pictures (and - typically German - marvelled at people unable to adhere to signs not to flash) I sit outside on the stairs in silence, waiting for the others taking a look around the yard which I saw before entering. The unlikely rain we only saw from the inside has stopped and the warm stone is dry again. A slender cat sneaks up to me, I play with her for a while in spite of her questionable cleanliness. Perfect peace and quiet in the very middle of Istanbul.