Can you relate
these places to the war? I asked Jan when walking back to the hostel after the
trip to Krka. I really couldn’t, I didn’t know enough about what happened in
these exact places and there was no visible destruction left. He pointed out
how some parts of the city we just passed had to be completely rebuilt. I
already knew the connection would be different, closer, for me in some other
places.
The Yugoslav Wars
were what made me realize that war is not a phenomenon of the past. Grandpa had
been in the war, I knew that as a little child already. But a war now, in
Europe, a civil war at that (what does that mean, I asked my mother, how does
that happen?), I had to process that. I don’t remember when exactly German
Broadcasting stopped announcing every part of the news with the name of the
city it came from. But they still did so in the 1990s and so I’ve been familiar
with the names of many places in this region for some 20 years. In my primary
school years both breakfast and dinner would be accompanied by “German
Broadcasting, 6:30, the news. Sarajevo…. Zagreb…. Belgrad…. Banja Luka….
Tuzla…. Mostar…. Srebrenica….” Children from these places (and from Iraq,
Somalia and Rwanda, Baghdad, Mogadishu and Kigali were often mentioned on the
news, too) filled the preparatory classes in my school and small caravan
refugee camps were erected in my town. Much later I’ve been working with
traumatized refugees from the Balkans, many of them still in a precarious legal
in-between situation. Apart from my interest in Slavic cultures, Europe and
twisted histories in general, it is one aim of this trip to get, if only a tiny
bit of it, a first-hand perspective of these countries and the places with the
names I got to know such a long time ago. To try to understand some of the
realities in this region of crossroads and to think of something else first
when I hear the names in the future than of war news in 1993 and frustrating
German immigration laws in 2013.
Because every place
should be appreciated in its own right. Some of what I will remember first from
now on when I hear these names is what you find here.
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